Categories
Nevada Characters

#264 FRANK SINATRA'S TAHOE BLUES

TAHOE NUGGET #264: FRANK SINATRA’S TAHOE BLUES

It’s been 50 years since Frank Sinatra was forced out of his ownership of the North Shore’s Cal-Neva Casino in late 1963, but that wasn’t the legendary crooner’s only problem in his troubled years at Lake Tahoe. Old Blue Eyes’ questionable relationships with criminals, politicians, and celebrities made for some rough sailing during his reign at Tahoe.

Frank Sinatra was a major partner at the Cal-Neva Lodge from 1960 to 1963. The casino, which straddles the California-Nevada state line, is currently closed for major renovations.

Sinatra’s troublesome history at Lake Tahoe started in 1951 with an intense argument with his lover, Hollywood sex siren Ava Gardner. Both were on extended residencies in Reno, Nevada, to process divorces from their respective spouses so they could marry each other. Sinatra and Gardner spent Labor Day Weekend at the Cal-Neva drinking and gambling.

By all accounts Sinatra loved Ava Gardner passionately, but their relationship was a volatile one.

While enjoying a boat ride in Crystal Bay, Gardner revealed that she had had a recent affair with a co-star and Sinatra flew into a rage. His business manager who was driving the boat became so upset he ran the boat aground near the Cal-Neva pier, tearing a hole in the hull and sinking the boat. That night Sinatra was so despondent that he ingested an overdose of sleeping pills, but his valet called a physician who quite possibly saved Sinatra’s life.

In late July 1962, actor and Rat Pack member Peter Lawford, along with his wife Patricia Kennedy, President John F. Kennedy’s sister, invited Marilyn Monroe to party with them at the Cal-Neva Lodge. Monroe had been an occasional lover of Sinatra’s and he used his private plane to fly her from Southern California to Tahoe. During the 1960 filming of “The Misfits” in western Nevada, Monroe had frequently visited Sinatra at Lake Tahoe and the couple’s romance had blossomed.

Marilyn Monroe and Frank Sinatra enjoying dinner together at the Cal-Neva.

Although the events of what actually happened at the Cal-Neva that July weekend are confusing and controversial (Monroe did meet with performer Dean Martin as well as her ex-husband, baseball great Joe DiMaggio), it would be the sex goddess’ last visit to Big Blue.

Some accounts claim that Peter Lawford had told Monroe privately that her romantic relationships with the Kennedy brothers (President JFK and U.S. Attorney General Robert Kennedy) had been terminated.

Marilyn Monroe in better times with the Kennedy brothers.

A week later Monroe was found dead in Los Angeles at the age of 36, a tragedy the coroner ruled as suicide but under mysterious circumstances. A half century later rumors persist that Monroe was killed because she had threatened to expose her sexual liaisons with the two Kennedy brothers. Stories about a sexual tryst between Marilyn Monroe and JFK at the Cal-Neva are unfounded.

Rumors of  JFK and Marilyn Monroe “hooking up” at the Cal-Neva are false, but during his campaign for president, Kennedy flew into Reno and drove by himself to Squaw Valley on January 31 just a couple of weeks before the start of the 1960 Winter Olympics. This photo depicts JFK chatting with German-American ski champion Willy Schaeffler and his son Jimmy. (JFK’s opponent, Vice President Richard Nixon, officially opened the Games on Feb. 18.)

In August 1963 Nevada’s Gaming Control Board accused Sinatra of allowing known mobster Sam Giancana to stay at one of the Cal-Neva cottages.

Cal-Neva cottage that gangster Giancana stayed as Sinatra’s guest.

Permitting Giancana, a notorious Chicago hoodlum of national repute, to stay at his casino led Nevada’s Gaming Commission to threaten Sinatra with revocation of his gaming licenses in the Silver State. Sinatra countered with his own threats of retribution, but the evidence was overwhelming and the “Chairman of the Board” surrendered his licenses in October 1963.

 

Frank Sinatra’s close relationship with mobster Sam Giancana sank his hopes to operate Nevada casinos.

Sinatra’s personal and business life had its ups and downs, but that autumn 50 years ago there was more trouble brewing. Less than a month after Sinatra lost control of his Nevada casinos his personal friend President Kennedy was shot and killed in Dallas, Texas, on November 22.  

The shock of the Kennedy assassination still lay heavy on Sinatra when on December 9 he received word that his son Frank Jr. had been kidnapped from Harrah’s Lodge at South Lake Tahoe. Sinatra Jr., an aspiring singer, and John Foss, a trumpet player in the Tommy Dorsey Orchestra, were eating dinner when two parka-clad gunmen barged into their room.

Snatching Sinatra, Jr. in 1963 made national news, albeit one with a typo in this headline.

They blindfolded the 19-year-old Sinatra, threw an overcoat over his shoulders and forced him into a white Chevrolet Impala. Once Foss worked himself free of his bonds he called the police. Officers from the nearby Zephyr Cove substation arrived within minutes while FBI agents from Reno quickly swarmed into the Tahoe Basin.   

Sinatra, Sr. was at home in Palm Springs, California, when word arrived of his son’s abduction. A snowstorm had shut down the South Lake Tahoe airport so he flew to Reno. After a failed attempt to drive to Tahoe over storm-swept Spooner Summit, Sinatra set up headquarters at Reno’s Mapes Hotel. Roadblocks were thrown up on every highway in the region, but the criminals somehow managed to slip through the dragnet.

South Lake Tahoe casino district.

Sinatra had publicly offered one million dollars for the safe return of his son. Inexplicably, the kidnappers asked for only $200,000 in unmarked bills, which an FBI agent delivered to a location in West Los Angeles. Two hours later, Frank, Jr. was released by his captors. He had been held for 54 hours, but was unhurt. When the good news swept the nation, a still grieving Robert Kennedy called to congratulate the Sinatra family.

On Dec. 12, one day after his son’s safe return, Frank Sr. celebrated his 48th birthday at his Las Vegas casino, the Sands, telling friends that “Getting Frankie back is the best birthday present I could ever have.”

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Categories
Eastern Sierra Front

#263: OWENS GOLD & TAHOE WHITE

TAHOE NUGGET #263: OWENS VALLEY GOLD & TAHOE WHITE:

PHOTO ESSAY: Last week I spent three days exploring the Owens Valley region and the majestic Eastern Sierra Front. The area had yet to experience a winter storm so the aspen and cottonwood trees below elevation 8,000 feet were offering great displays of autumn color.

On the afternoon of Day #2 I drove 15 miles out toward Death Valley on a closed mountain road where I saw just 4 cars in 3 hours. I went far enough east to leave trees and vegetation behind, but even in that desiccated zone exotic high desert wildflowers were in full and vigorous bloom.  

On the way back on Day #3 I explored Rock Creek above Tom’s Place on Highway 395, about 20 miles north of Bishop. This trail of moderate difficulty along Rock Creek leads through Little Lakes Valley that showcases a necklace of pristine, glacially-fed lakes in the John Muir Wilderness. This hike is rated moderate and family friendly, but the trail head starts above 10,000 feet in elevation so uphill sections along the way winded me a bit.

Returned to Tahoe this weekend to winterize my property in anticipation of the region’s first robust cold front of the 2014 winter season forecasted to hit last night. Today woke up to 6 inches of fluff and the season’s first shoveling session.

Found this set of three photogenic cottonwood trees in the Carson Valley on the morning of Day #1. Similar to aspen trees, cottonwoods indicate water in dry country.

Sierra peaks loom over aspen groves near Grant Lake along the June Lake Loop off Highway 395.

In September 1871, 29 hardened criminals violently escaped from the Nevada State Penitentiary in Carson City. Six fled south toward the rugged eastern Sierra mountain country of Inyo and Mono counties. A posse captured several fugitives and they were taken to the nearby Bishop jail. As the prisoners were being escorted back to Carson City by wagon, a large group of vigilantes lynched two of the men in this grove of trees located along the old Sherwin Pass Grade. For the full story check out Nugget #93. 

Today the Owens River flows peacefully south through its namesake valley, but the region has a history of violent conflict between local ranchers and farmers against Los Angeles politicians and businesses. The classic 1974 movie “Chinatown” starring Jack Nicholson, Faye Dunaway, and John Huston is based on the fight over Owens Valley water.  

 On the road back to Owens Valley from Death Valley, I observed a landscape reminiscent of an “Indiana Jones” movie. Does anyone else see the ancient skulls in the porous rock?

Cottonwood trees take on a luminescent glow at sunset near Big Pine. 

The Rock Creek Trail is the gateway to a series of pretty alpine lakes near the eastern border of the John Muir Wilderness. This is Mack Lake. When I arrived at noon there was still a film of ice on the water. I saw bountiful numbers of trout. (I took many photos on this October road trip, but a Nugget requires judicious editing so this is the only pic from the Little Lakes Valley.)

The pier at Garwood’s Grill & Pier in Carnelian Bay took on a curious, regimented look this morning.

Yesterday Garwood’s Restaurant sat customers on its lakefront deck to enjoy Sunday Brunch. Today the outdoor seating looks somewhat less appealing.

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Categories
Tahoe Snapshot History

#262 TAHOE SUMMER SNAPSHOTS

TAHOE NUGGET #262: TAHOE SUMMER SNAPSHOTS

A flood of editorial deadlines has kept me office-bound for much of the summer, but I did get out and about a few times so I’ve posted a short essay to share a bit of what’s been going on at Lake Tahoe. The region has been enduring periods of smoke and haze for nearly a month due to two large California fires that ignited in early August.

The Tahoe Basin and western Nevada communities of Carson City and Reno are all located downwind of both the American and the Rim (Yosemite) wildfires. Fortunately, the American fire is now 100% contained and full containment for the Rim blaze is projected by Sept. 20. At this point air quality in the Tahoe Basin has improved dramatically.  

After one of the driest January to May seasons on record, the area picked up several inches of much needed rain in June. But July would turn out to be the warmest since the beginning of measurements in 1888, and it started out with a scorching heat wave at the beginning of the month. The weeklong roasting quickly dried out biofuels in the forest and helped set the stage for the wildfires of August. (Thanks to the NWS staff in Reno for the graphics.) 

The American fire was located west of Lake Tahoe and south of Interstate 80. At the time of this photo smoke was drifting north and staying west of the Tahoe Basin. This view is from the top of Cave Rock looking toward the West Shore. I explored Cave Rock for the first time this summer and will be posting a Nugget in the near future. It’s an amazing place! 

Water vapor satellite image from Aug. 21 depicts a closed low pressure system drifting off the California coast. During summer months these counter-clockwise circulations are usually moisture-starved, but they can generate thunderstorm activity, particularly over the Sierra Nevada as seen here. Note monsoonal moisture surging into the Great Basin along 110 degrees longitude.

Tahoe obscured. There were many days in August where visibility was very poor due to smoke. Unfortunately, I led my annual historic bus tour for the North Lake Tahoe Historical Society down along the East Shore on Aug. 23 and we couldn’t see a thing. With more than 20 years leading ecotourism field trips in the region, I’ve been snowed on, rained on, wind-blown and chilled to the bone. This was the first time I was smoked out and it was by far the worst condition of them all.

The smoke did make for some beautiful sunsets and sunrises at times.

While hiking at Squaw Valley in August, I came upon some leftover snowpack carved by a stream. Snow pile above the tunnel was about 12 feet deep. While crouching 15 feet into this mini cavern I was aware that just a few days before a snowboarder was killed by a collapsing snow tunnel at Mt. Baker. Fortunately, this feature had less mass but since I was alone any issue could have been troublesome. 

Each August the Sierra Boat Company in Carnelian Bay hosts the Concours d’ Elegance wooden boat show. This is Hornet II. Originally built with a mahogany deck, her art deco aircraft-aluminum deck was built in preparation for the Lake Tahoe Championship races in 1939. Equipped with a 600-horsepower engine, it blew away the competition.

Another look at Hornet II. Over nearly 20 years of racing (1935-1953), she won more races on Lake Tahoe than any other boat. Powered by different high-performance engines, this stunning watercraft was owned by Henry J. Kaiser, a Tahoe homeowner and industrialist, who became known as the father of modern American ship building. Kaiser’s Tahoe estate was featured prominently in Francis Ford Coppola’s 1974 film, The Godfather II. The development is now called Fleur du Lac on Tahoe’s west shore near Homewood.

On Sept. 1, Garwoods Grill & Pier hosted their first annual fireworks display right here on the beach in Carnelian Bay. It was a fund raiser for the local high school and by far the best fireworks experience for me. Close to home and close to the pyrotechnics too. Can’t wait until next year!

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Categories
Tahoe Characters

#261 THUNDERBIRD LODGE: TAHOE’S UNIQUE ESTATE

TAHOE NUGGET #261: THUNDERBIRD LODGE: TAHOE’S UNIQUE ESTATE

This weekend I was invited by members of the Tahoe Rotary Yacht Club to join them for a dinner and tour at the legendary Thunderbird Lodge on Lake Tahoe’s east shore. Docents led us through the labyrinth that was the estate of enigmatic gambling playboy George Whittell and shared stories of the wild and crazy life of this Tahoe millionaire.

Born in San Francisco on September 28, 1881, George and his twin brother Nicholas were the only children of George and Anna Whittell who controlled a banking and real estate fortune. Nick died at the age of four, leaving George, or Junior as his family called him, as the sole heir to the family’s millions. Junior knew early in life that he wasn’t going to be a respectable businessman like his father and he charted out a wild lifestyle that would distress his parents and shock their staid upper-crust friends.

As a rebellious teenager, Junior fell in love with circus animals and ended up following the Barnum and Bailey Circus around the United States. In this photo he is using his mouth to feed treats to his pet lion Bill.

George Whittell attended a slew of colleges and universities, but never graduated from any of them. When he was 22, he married a young chorus girl, but his father quickly paid to have the union annulled. Shortly after, Whittell eloped with Josie Cunningham, a dancer from a popular British stage show. His parents failed to break up this relationship, but Cunningham herself filed for divorce just two years later.

Painting of Whittell’s wife Elia Pascal, a Parisian debutante, with one of their pet cats. George and Elia were married to each other from 1919 until Whittell’s death in 1969, but due to his sexual escapades they rarely lived in the same house and never had children. 

In 1917, when the United States entered World War I, Whittell’s father paid the Italian government to commission Junior as an army captain, a title he would use the rest of his life. He did drive an ambulance during the war and was slightly injured.

Captain Whittell was fortunate to be born into wealth, but he had a lucky streak too. Just months before 1929 stock market crash, he liquidated $50 million in stocks.

Partial view of the main room in the relatively small Thunderbird Lodge taken from the second floor where George and his wife Elia had separate bedrooms.

When the country entered the Great Depression and millions of Americans were forced into poverty, Whittell was loaded with money. To protect his wealth he moved his residency to Nevada to escape state income taxes. In Nevada, Whittell financed a partnership to purchase and develop about 29 miles of spectacular real estate on Tahoe’s east shore.

 

Photograph of George Whittell with one of his Greyhound dogs in his bedroom. Off to the right is a doorway leading to a spiral staircase that climbs to a “crow’s nest” where George did most of his sleeping

Whittell had planned to develop large resorts and hotels at both Sand Harbor and Zephyr Cove. Fortunately, his vision to build the Sand Harbor Hotel and Casino, complete with 200 cottages and an aerial tram to the proposed Reno Ski Bowl (Mt. Rose) ski resort, never made it past the drawing board.

Stories abound about Whittell’s all-night poker games in the Thunderbird Lodge’s Card House with celebrities like baseball great Ty Cobb who had a cabin at nearby Cave Rock. Whittell gambled in the extreme. My wife Nora’s father Tom watched “The Captain” bet thousands of dollars a hand at Tahoe casinos during the 1930s. The money he lost over time to Joe King enabled the developer to purchase what is now Kings Beach on Tahoe’s north shore.

The aborted developments spared Sand Harbor and Zephyr Cove, two of the most beautiful stretches of shoreline at Lake Tahoe. In 1938, Whittell forced his partners out and took control of the 40,000 acres. Whittell reportedly paid about $2 million for the land at a time when lakefront property cost only $12 per foot.

Originally this room was supposed to be the boathouse, but the yacht that Whittell had built for it was much too big. (The rear wall of glass faces directly out onto the lake.) So Whittell decided to convert it into an indoor swimming pool, but while it was under construction one of the workers fell off the ladder, broke his neck and died. Whittell, a superstitious man, ordered the room left exactly like when the accident occurred and it hasn’t been touched since.  

Whittell then retained Reno architect Frederic DeLongchamps to build a residence on Tahoe’s east shore. The opulent Thunderbird Lodge features intricate architectural details created by skilled Native American stonemasons from Carson City’s Stewart Indian School, Italian ironworkers and Scandinavian wood craftsmen.

It took 100 workers more than two years to build the three-story French chateau and other stone structures that overlook the lake’s famed blue water.

Part of the 600-foot-long tunnel that winds its way underneath the estate. The tunnel leads to many side rooms and eventually into the second boathouse built to accommodate Whittell’s new speedboat. The tunnel was constructed by Indian stonemasons and the rock work is amazingly smooth. The metal tracks in the floor allowed employees to push small mining carts loaded with household supplies to the main buildings.

Whittell also hired legendary marine architect John Hacker to design a unique Tahoe yacht. Sleek and stylish, the Thunderbird was launched in 1939. Powered by dual 550-horsepower aircraft engines, the boat could reach 70 mph. Tricked out with an art-deco stainless steel superstructure, the yacht is considered a “one of a kind masterpiece.” 

  

Perhaps the most visually stunning of all the wooden vessels still plying Tahoe water is the Thunderbird, a 1939 55-foot Hacker-Craft launched from Tahoe City on July 14, 1940.

Parties at the somewhat reclusive Captain’s “summer playpen” were relatively rare, but they were extravagant. Old timers still talk about Whittell’s weeklong affairs with scantily clad showgirls from Tahoe casinos.

Each summer Whittell flew in his pet lion named Bill. He brought in a polar bear one year and another time flew in a baby elephant named Mingo. The polar bear didn’t stay long and after a week at high altitude Mingo had to be returned to California.

Each fireplace in the house has a unique fire screen design. This is from one of the small rooms off of the tunnel. Rumors for the purpose of this room abounded until scientific testing of residue on the rock walls indicated that it was an opium den.

Over the years Whittell spent much of his time with Mae Mullhogen, his business secretary and favorite mistress. In 1954 she died in a car crash after a shopping trip to Kings Beach. Grief-stricken, Whittell became more reclusive.

Guests with the Tahoe Rotary Club were encouraged to take their dinner plates and wine to any location on the estate. A small group of us found our way to this charming gazebo with remarkable views of Lake Tahoe.

In 1958 the state of Nevada negotiated an agreement with Whittell to establish Sand Harbor State Park, the first state park on the Nevada shore. George resisted additional efforts by the Nevada legislature, but the old captain was finally forced to sell his remaining acreage to the state which banned commercial development and protected the shoreline for public enjoyment.

 

Sunset view from the Thunderbird Lodge gazebo.

Longtime Rotarian and skipper Mickey Daniels transported about 35 guests aboard his commercial fishing vessel Big Mack II.

 

                  

 

Categories
Exotic Terrain Uncategorized

#260 HAWAI'I: BIG ISLAND ADVENTURE

TAHOE NUGGET #260: HAWAI’I: BIG ISLAND ADVENTURE!  

My wife Nora and I recently returned from a “honeymoon” trip to the Gold Coast of Kona, Hawaii — 7 years after our wedding. We had a wonderful time and Nora finally got to swim in a warm ocean and experience the joys of snorkeling. We’re definitely going back to the Big Island next year.

Nearly 3,000 miles of ocean separate California and Hawaii, but by the 1830s, hundreds of contract laborers from Hawaii were a common sight in California, where they worked as able-bodied seamen, fur trappers, agricultural labor, and domestics. Hawaiian chiefs supposedly had divine origins, but commoners known as Kanakas did all the contract work and the royalty took a cut of their wages.

We were able to catch every sunset but one while in Hawaii. The west side of the Big Island is Kona’s sunny Gold Coast. The word Kona means leeward and the region is always warm and receives less than 12 inches of rain a year. It lies in the rain shadow of Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea, two volcanoes that exceed 13,000 feet. 

In September 1838, a California-bound, German-born immigrant named John Sutter had reached the fertile Willamette Valley (Oregon), but was intent on traveling to California. Locals told him to wait until spring before he attempted the rugged journey south to Monterey, the Mexican capital of Alta California. Hostile natives and deep snow in the Siskiyou Mountains were deadly obstacles. Instead, Sutter boarded a ship for the Kingdom of Hawaii, where he met King Kamehameha III.

Nora doesn’t like to camp so we stayed in this local village named Hilton Waikoloa. The hotel and restaurant complex sits on a 10-acre landscape that includes swimming pools and slides, waterfalls, golf course, snorkeling with turtles, swimming with dolphins, boat rides and more. It’s oriented to families with children, but occupancy was low when we were there.

Sutter spent months waiting for a California-bound ship to arrive. He left Hawaii with 8 Kanakas in his employ. It was these Hawaiian natives that helped John Sutter establish a large fort and settlement in the southern Sacramento Valley, which later became the city of Sacramento and eventual capital of the Golden State.

Best known for its cattle ranching and Hawaiian cowboys, there are many wild goats on the Big Island along with wandering mules. Much of the landmass is covered with recent lava flows (since 1850) and the surface texture is tortuously rough. It’s amazing how these animals travel so quickly over the cracked and brittle rock.

The Honu or Green Sea Turtle is one of the oldest animals on earth, the species dating back 200 million years to the age of dinosaurs. Their population is threatened and they are protected under the U.S. Endangered Species Act. The turtles are a common aquatic presence in the snorkeling areas and off shore waters.

Samuel Clemens became the correspondent “Mark Twain” in Virginia City, Nevada Territory in the early 1860s. He later moved to San Francisco to continue his writing career away from the Comstock.

Akaka Falls State Park is located north of Hilo on the wet side of the Big Island where tropical jungles flourish and plunging waterfalls thrill visitors. These falls drop 442 feet.

In 1866, Twain took a steamer to the Sandwich Islands and the letters he wrote during his 4 month stay there are terrific, often funny observations of the local culture and lifestyle. Twain’s 25 letters were published in the Sacramento Union newspaper and were a big hit. They were later published under the title: “Mark Twain’s Letters from Hawaii.”

In this swale of land at 9,000 feet above sea level and just below Mauna Kea’s 13,000 foot summit, dry air meets an atmosphere saturated with moisture pumping up from  the Hilo side of the Big Island. On this day, however, the wall of clouds gorged with water vapor could not make its way west due to the strong, desiccating wind that dissipated the surging wall of moisture.

Twain tried surfing and swimming with naked native maidens. Regarding the maidens, he wrote, “At noon today I observed a bevy of nude young native women bathing in the sea, and I went and sat down on their clothes to keep them from being stolen.”

Twain rode a horse to the top of Mauna Kea, the Big Island volcano 13,796 feet above sea level. He also wrote, “The native language is soft and liquid and flexible and in every way efficient and satisfactory–till you get mad; then there you are; there isn’t anything in it to swear with.”

Mark Twain said the coconut palm trees “looked like a feather duster struck by lightning.”

By the time Mark Twain returned to San Francisco he was famous. At the time he wrote, “I returned to California to find myself about the best-known honest man on the Pacific Coast. Thomas Maguire, proprietor of several theaters, said that now was the time to make my fortune—strike while the iron was hot—break into the lecture field!”

I would estimate that I had the pleasure of seeing most of these fish during my snorkeling escapades. Striking colors with an iridescence glow among some species. Courtesy Snorkel Bob’s who rented us our fins and boogie boards.

One of the biggest disappointments of Mark Twain’s life was that he was never able to return to Hawaii, a quest he longed for his whole life. His newfound success and future travels worldwide conspired to deny his dream to revisit. The closest he came was a view while onboard a passing steamer.

 

 Nora playing with fire.

 

“Hawai’i is the loveliest fleet of islands that lies at anchor in any ocean.” — Mark Twain

Aloha!

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Categories
Weather History

#259 COLLAPSE OF BLYTH ARENA

TAHOE NUGGET #259 COLLAPSE OF SQUAW VALLEY’S BLYTH ARENA   

Among some longtime locals, the collapse of Squaw Valley’s Blyth Arena on March 29, 1983, is a legendary tale of conspiracy, mystery, and subterfuge. Even after 30 years, unsubstantiated rumors still persist that the structure, completed in 1959 for the 1960 Winter Olympics, was purposely destroyed to expand parking at the famed resort.

Analysis by engineers and Squaw Valley management determined the likely cause to be inadequate engineering combined with heavy snow buildup during the big winter of 1983. These claims, however, have done little to assuage those who still think dynamite brought the building down. 

When Alex Cushing, owner of the relatively primitive Squaw Valley ski area, managed to land the 1960 Winter Olympics in the spring of 1955, plans for building the required infrastructure got underway in earnest. It was a huge undertaking with a $16 million price tag.

As part of Alex Cushing’s pitch to land the 1960 Winter Games, he promised that the United States would build a brand new Olympic Village from scratch, which pleased many non-European delegates during this Cold War period.

One of the key structures for the VIII Olympic Winter Games was the Blyth Memorial Arena. Easily accessible by both spectators and athletes, the arena was a modern and uniquely engineered structure that had won first place over 600 other entries in the 1958 Progressive Architecture Design Award for recreational facilities.

Blyth Arena was enclosed on three sides with the south side open. The building was designed similar to a suspension bridge with a span of about 100 yards. There were 16 steel support columns (six on each end of the arena) that held up the roof, but no true support columns within the perimeter of the arena. The roof beams were a clear span from the ridge to the side walls and abutments. Cables anchored to concrete blocks were attached to the top center of each beam, so the dead weight of the blocks counterbalanced the roof load.

Blyth Arena was still under construction during the February 1959 North American Championship winter sports competition, which was billed as a “dry run” for athletes who hoped to compete in the upcoming 1960 Olympics.

The west and east sections of the roof were actually separate structures capable of flexing independently under the weight of snow. The arena could seat up to 9,000 spectators plus room for 2,500 people standing, and provided a 360 degree unobstructed view of the ice rink.

Blyth Arena had already withstood some heavy hitting winters such as 1969 and 1982, but the 1983 season was a monster with rapid-fire storms. It still ranks as one of the worst in California history. (See Nugget #257)

Unlike most buildings in snow country, which are beefed up structurally to passively carry anticipated snow loads, Blyth was designed with an active system to make the roof shed snow. The roof itself consisted of galvanized metal with the lower section heated so that snow at the bottom would constantly slide off into concrete troughs at the west and east ends of the building. That allowed snow on the upper portion of the roof to also slide to the bottom rim.

Heat was produced by the huge refrigeration compressor that kept the ice rink artificially frozen. In the years following the Winter Games, however, the compressor was replaced with a smaller, more energy efficient unit supplemented by oil-fired boilers.

Note lack of snow on Blyth Arena roof when snow-shedding system was working properly in 1960. Courtesy Bill Briner, Squaw Valley’s official photographer during the Olympics.

During the 1970s, complaints that the roof leaked were sent to the U.S. Forest Service which had assumed ownership of the building after the 1960 Games. Instead of simply caulking the cable-related openings so that the building’s active snow-load management system could continue to function properly, the Forest Service coated the entire roof with fiberglass waterproofing. Once that was done, snow no longer slid off the roof as designed.   

During the summer of 1982, the Forest Service surrendered ownership of Blyth Arena when Congress passed legislation to liquidate the federal holdings in Squaw Valley. Subsequently the former Olympic Village (present-day Olympic Village Inn) was sold to a developer and Blyth was purchased by Squaw Valley Ski Corporation.

After Squaw bought Blyth, Peter Bansen, a Ski Corp employee, volunteer fireman, and former assistant manager of the rink, took over running the facility.

By late December 1982, deep accumulations on the roof of Blyth threatened the structure. To reduce the load, Ski Corp brought in snow cats to plow the roof; snow depths ranged from four to eight feet. This winter was far from done, however, and heavy wet snow continued to pile up in the Tahoe Sierra. Frequent storm days drove skiers off the mountain and onto the protected ice rink making for handsome profits.

The classic ski movie “Hot Dog” was being filmed at Squaw during the winter of ’83. The production company was using portions of the Blyth facility for storing props and equipment. Many Squaw Valley and North Shore locals were cast as extras in this flick.

On March 29, 1983, Blyth Arena was booked with a Tiny Tots skating session in the morning, public skating in the afternoon and broomball games in between. Peter Bansen went to work at 6 a.m. that morning, fired up the compressors and picked up the receipts from the previous evening.

To this day Bansen doesn’t know why, but as he walked on the rink’s ice surface he looked up at the roof. Two of the huge, steel box beams that supported the roof were bending at just about the middle of their span. Deeply concerned, Bansen met with Ski Corp’s General Manager Jimmy Mott and asked him to come down to the rink to check out the situation. After looking at the Blyth support beams, Mott told Bansen “I don’t know what I’m looking at – just do whatever you think is best.”

Bansen wasn’t sure if a roof failure was imminent or even likely, but he decided to err on the side of caution. He closed the arena for the day. He changed the answering machine message, called all employees and told them not to come in, and when the “Hot Dog” production crew arrived he killed the electricity and told them there was a power failure. To be sure that none of his staff entered the building he changed the locks. When he left, he believed that the facility was empty.

Once outside, he inspected the building and noticed that the lower cables that supported the two distorted beams were starting to fail. As each individual wire in the woven cable snapped, it generated a chilling, flat twang. Bizarrely, the roof didn’t appear to have too much snow on it, except for a drift in the middle that extended from the edge of the roof almost to the ridge. 

Rink manager Pete Bansen was walking across the parking lot when a huge portion of the roof collapsed with a loud boom and billowing cloud of dust. Despite all of Bansen’s precautions, Squaw Valley employee John Moors had entered the building to work on a special project. A large chunk of snow trapped him inside the building for a few minutes, but luckily he escaped unscathed and there were no injuries or fatalities

A forensic engineering report released in 1987 pointed out that the arena was structurally under-designed for snow loads at that location. In 1977 a group of consultants had agreed that the structure was in good shape, but recommended additional support to bring the building up to code. Money was spent on improvements, but nothing was done to increase the load capacity.

The collapse of Blyth Arena left a gaping hole in our collective memories of all the historic events that occurred there, including the U.S. hockey team’s miraculous 1960 victory over the Gold Medal-defending Russians.  

Until its collapse, Blyth Arena had been very popular with locals and visitors alike who enjoyed the year ‘round skating there. Figure skating exhibitions, youth hockey and broomball leagues brought in thousands of people every year.      

Blyth Memorial Arena was a conspicuous landmark and epicenter for Olympic competition during those glorious Winter Games at Squaw Valley.

Special thanks to Pete Bansen for sharing his comprehensive overview of the Blyth Arena history and collapse.

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Categories
Weather History

#258 CATS THAT RUN ON SNOW

TAHOE NUGGET #258: CATS THAT RUN ON SNOW

Over-snow vehicles are ubiquitous today in Tahoe’s mountain country. They range from high powered “sleds” as modern snowmobiles are commonly called, that scream up the steepest slopes to the super expensive and sophisticated snow cats that can level moguls and groom a resort’s snow surface into ribbons of smooth corduroy.

Outfitted with specially designed implements, modern snow cats enable operators to trick out perfectly formed half pipes and other artificial terrain features popular with snowboarders and skiers. Improving technology for these rigs has been a boon for both backcountry power-sports enthusiasts and downhill skiers and riders looking for a smooth level surface on the hill.

Modern snow-cats and snow groomers are loaded with advanced technology and can have price tags north of $250,000.

The first mechanical over-snow vehicle was invented by Virgil D. White of New Hampshire in 1913. Over the course of nine years he modified a Model T Ford automobile, substituting runners or skis for the front wheels. Another set of rear wheels were added and traction belts installed to provide additional grip on the snow.

The traction belt consisted of a series of metal plates joined together by steel links. The outer plates were cleated for traction and side-slipping protection and the inside plates were curved to fit over the tires and act as track guides. The steering runners were fitted with keels to facilitate turning and prevent slide-slipping. White’s “Snowmobile Attachment” invention worked reasonably well, but it never reached production.

White’s “snow-mobile” adaptation to winter travel was still being used in the early 1940s as depicted in this photo of a car on Highway 40 near Donner Pass. Note skis on the front in place of tires and traction belts on the drive wheels.

The first commercially successful snowmobile was designed and built by Carl Eliason in northern Wisconsin in 1924. Eliason, an auto mechanic, steam engineer, blacksmith and general store owner, struggled with a foot deformity and could not ski or snowshoe into the forest to hunt, fish, and trap with his friends. To make up for his disability, Eliason used his mechanical knowledge and old fashioned Yankee ingenuity.

Working in his shop, Eliason built a small over-snow vehicle using various automobile and bicycle parts, powered by a 2.5 horsepower, liguid-cooled outboard boat engine. This primitive motorized toboggan utilized four snow skis to glide on and a cleated conveyor belt webbing to provide floatation and propulsion. The driver steered by a rope attached to two short skis mounted under the front of the rig.

The Eliason Motor Toboggan was patented in 1927 and sold to hunters, fishermen and trappers. Over time the prototype unit was improved upon and within a few years certain models of the machine could seat up to four passengers and reach speeds of 40 miles per hour.     

Truckee resident James McIver, Jr. was exactly the kind of man a pioneer mountain community like Truckee, California needed in the early days. An expert horseshoer, dairyman, dynamite technician, and engine mechanic—McIver was a man of many talents.

In the early 1930s he built one of the first snowmobiles; a bulky machine built from a kit that adapted a Fordson Tractor power plant and drive for traveling through snow. Unlike Eliason’s nimble motor toboggan, McIver’s “Snow Devil” utilized two long rotating cylinders with raised screw threads welded to their surface. The two rotors were chain-driven to rotate and literally screw their way through snow.

McIver’s rig could travel up to 5 miles per hour and haul supplies and passengers on the sled it pulled behind. This rugged, reliable vehicle was too slow to travel very long distances, but one year Jim and Constable Tom Dolly used it to deliver mail regularly from Truckee to Hobart Mills five miles away. During the 1986 World’s Fair in Vancouver, Canada, a transportation movie in the California Exhibit showed Jim and his snow devil crossing a frozen Donner Lake.

FRONT VIEW: This photograph, taken by Judge Vernon of Tahoe City, shows the Snow Devil pulling a sled with passengers, and Jim McIver on the hood. Mechanic Glenn Coffy is driving. Coffy owned an automobile repair garage in Truckee.

REAR VIEW: Note cyclinder drive chain on left hand side of Snow Devil. McIver’s original snowmobile is on display at the Heidrick Agricultural History Museum in Woodland, California, where they have a collection of antique tractors and trucks. 

Snowmobiles served a purpose, but their small size and exposure to the winter elements limited its function. Inventors and innovators realized that there was a market for a more substantial over-snow vehicle, such as one that could carry utility repair crews into the mountains or troops into war. One of the first successful innovators was Emmitt Tucker.

Tucker was born in a log cabin near snowy Grants Pass, Oregon, in 1892, and even at a young age he began dreaming of a vehicle that could travel through deep, soft snow. In the mid-1920s he moved to southern California where he continued working on his idea of an over-snow tractor. Similar to McIver’s corkscrew-powered snow devil, Tucker built several spiral driven machines that also worked on a screw principle to move though snow.

Dissatisfied with the machine’s performance, he searched for a better system. By the late 1930s, he developed the first Tucker Sno-Cat using a steel track that rotated around a rear-mounted pontoon. For balance on his first unit he installed three skis, one up front and two in the rear. To better position his R&D, in 1942 he moved to Grass Valley, California, just below the Sierra snow belt. He set up a production line and was able to sell about 70 of his prototype Model 222. Some of his first customers were the railroads, the U.S. Soil Conservation Service, and the U.S. Geological Survey.

While modern Tucker Sno-cats utilize 4 sets of tracks, a few experimental units and early production models used 2 sets as seen here in the 1950s. 

In 1943, the U.S. Weather Bureau assigned Dr. Robert W. Gerdel to work with Dr. James E. Church from the University of Nevada-Reno who had started a snow surveying system in the Lake Tahoe Basin. Dr. Gerdel was then authorized to establish a snow laboratory at Soda Springs near Donner Pass where scientists could study snowpack hydrology and snow physics.

This M-7 model was the first snow cat used on snow surveys at the Central Sierra Snow Laboratory near Donner Pass, circa 1945.

It was the perfect location for Emmitt Tucker to test his new invention and the scientists at the Snow Lab were more than happy to put Tucker’s Sno-Cats through their paces. Soon the U.S. government and military were testing snow tractor technology across the country, and the Tucker Sno-Cat would later become famous around the world.  

Hydrologists studying Sierra snowpack in 1948. Note that their M-7 snow cat is hauling lots of equipment. Before these over-snow vehicles were introduced, all gages and equipment had to be carried by men on skis or snowshoes. Castle Peak near Donner Pass in background. 

The United States military started working on troop carriers early in World War II when strategists were planning a winter invasion of Norway. The M-7 model shown above was an early prototype.

This Canadian high-speed troop carrier is model CL-61, AKA the “Rat.” Developed by Canadair, it had articulated steering and full power through rear take-off to all four drive belts, circa 1955. 

Over the past six decades, snow tractor and snowmobile development has produced vehicles that barely resemble these earliest prototypes, but the mechanical concepts for today’s rigs are primarily based on the work of those early dreamers of mechanized transportation.  

This 1957 Kristi Ber-Kat model rear engine speedster reminds me something from a Jetson’s cartoon. There were only 7 made between 1955 & 1957.

This beauty is a Bombardier-designed “School Bus” during testing by the California utility company Pacific Gas & Electric for power line patrol at Soda Springs near Donner Pass, circa 1951.

Propeller-driven vehicles like this colorful Indian Air Snow Sled were good for travel in open untimbered or sparsely timbered regions such as the upper Midwest. Powered by an airplane engine, they are fast but ill-suited to either steep slopes or densely forested areas.

Air-propeller sled zipping along in dry Colorado powder. This type of vehicle performed poorly in deep Sierra Cement. Note uncaged prop behind driver.

*Special thanks to Dr. Robert Gerdel’s son Chuck who has shared many photographs from his father’s collection with me over the years.

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Categories
Weather History

TAHOE NUGGET #257: 1983 —THE BIG ONE!

TAHOE NUGGET #257 30th ANNIVERSARY OF THE BIG ONE (1983)

This winter started off at a blistering pace precipitation-wise, but then after the Christmas holidays the spigot turned off and we just set a new all-time record for the least amount of precipitation for the first two months in the calendar year. 

Average precipitation for the months of January and February—normally two of the wettest months of the year with a combined average of more than 17 inches of water—was just 2.2 inches. At Tahoe City, which averages 11 inches for the two months, less than one inch of precipitation fell in the bucket. Reno also set a new dryness record for the two months with little more than a tenth of an inch.

At first the 2013 water year was off to an epic start with double average rain and snow, similar to the top 10 winter of 2011. But neither could keep up with the elevated precipitation trajectory set by the winter of 1983. That monster season is still the overall wettest in Sierra history and the benchmark by which others are measured.

Thirty years ago the West endured one of the most brutal winters in the annals of Sierra weather. Nearly 67 feet of snow fell at Donner Pass in 1983, the sixth greatest all time total for that location since 1878. The incessant storm activity and heavy snowfall took its toll on local residents and businesses, as well as visitors looking to ski some of the deepest powder in decades.

In 1983 potent storms arrived in October and persisted until early May with only short reprieves. Heavy snow buried the mountains, torrential rain lashed the lowlands and 25-foot waves pounded the coast from Fort Bragg to San Diego.

The big winter of ‘83 was not a complete surprise. An unusually strong El Niño event in the Pacific Ocean was adding more juice to the jet stream and climatologists warned of increased potential for a wet winter. A persistent, deep low pressure system in the Gulf of Alaska combined with an intensified high pressure dome in the central Pacific to squeeze the jet stream and effectively double the speed of the westerly flow of air across the ocean.

Fast moving storm systems embedded in the jet stream were fueled by released energy from exceptionally warm sea water as they raced toward the West Coast. Depending on your perspective, it was either a recipe for disaster or a powder hound’s ultimate fantasy.

The Storm King wasted no time in fulfilling the prophecies for a heavy season. As a harbinger of things to come, rare September snowfall hit the mountains. Enough, in fact, that twice that month CalTrans was forced to require tire chains on Interstate 80 and other local roadways.

In late October, activity picked up again as a strong flow of moist, subtropical air from near Hawaii inundated the Sierra with heavy rain and high elevation snow. More than 10 inches of rain soaked Blue Canyon that month, more than double its October average. The jet stream soon shifted, however, and a week later the first in a series of cold storms from the Gulf of Alaska slammed the West Coast.

Southern Pacific crews check the lead engine in Truckee after clearing track in 1983.

This relentless stream of powerful weather systems buried the Truckee-Tahoe region. Most resort operators had never seen anything like it. And to top off November, the last storm was a wild one, dumping four feet of snow in downtown Truckee which paralyzed traffic and closed schools for two days.

Eastbound train coming through the Donner Pass tunnel and snowshed system. In the mid-1990s this portion of track was abandoned and the rails removed. Today hikers and mountain bikers explore it during the summer months.

Alpine Meadows Ski Resort picked up 87 inches of snow that month, which got the ski season off to a great start. By Dec. 1, more than 6 feet of snow covered the ground at Norden, compared to an average of 11 inches for that time of year.

After that barrage there was a three week lull between storms, typical for December or January in the Sierra. And then, just before the economically important Christmas-New Year’s holiday period, the most intense storms so far roared in with damaging winds and 10 feet of new snow. Fierce winds associated with this dynamic weather system exceeded 90-mph at Mt. Tamalpais in Marin County.  The Golden Gate Bridge was closed for only the third time ever.

Southern Pacific cook stands on 15-foot high snow measuring stake near Donner Pass. That’s a solid snowpack if he can walk on it without skis or snow shoes.

In the mountains, Donner Pass received another 7 feet of snow and the snowpack rose to a solid 11 feet deep. Despite all the holiday traffic, CalTrans shut down westbound Interstate 80 for two full days. Power lines were ripped down by the tempest and communities in Truckee and Lake Tahoe went dark. Some customers in the Truckee area were without electricity for 13 days while temperatures plummeted to 7 degrees below zero.

Southern Pacific telegrapher’s cabin buried near Donner Pass in March 1983.

By New Year’s Day mountain highways were clear for everyone to enjoy some of the best holiday skiing in memory. Alpine Meadows reported a base of 10 to 15 feet while Sugar Bowl boasted 12 to 18 feet of white gold. A strong ridge of high pressure dominated for the first half of January, blocking the Pacific storm track. Sunny days and warmer temperatures gave locals hope that the destructive storms had abated.

The 3-story Soda Springs Hotel remained open during the 1983 winter despite overwhelming snowfall.

But on Jan. 21, 1983, another juiced up Pacific storm barreled onshore, pounding California with heavy rain and snow, high winds, and massive waves along the coast. The surfing town of Santa Cruz was inundated with an incredible 25 inches of rain in 36 hours and up to 10 feet of new snow immobilized Lake Tahoe. By early February, the snowpack at Sugar Bowl Ski Resort had reached 26 feet deep.

Southern Pacific crews shoveling the roof of a collapsed building next to the concrete train snowshed.

Storms in February, March and April continued to batter California with rain, wind and snow. The statewide precipitation averaged 200% of normal in February and 300% in March. Around the first of March another huge cyclone dumped  7 more feet of snow on Donner Pass.

In Truckee and Lake Tahoe, where residents were longing for sunshine, it snowed every day from April 18-30, including 40 inches on the last weekend of the month. Snow depths at Soda Springs (shown here in April) exceeded 17 feet; some of the deepest snow since World War II.

In terms of precipitation amounts, runoff volumes and the geographical extent of winter flood damage, 1983 is unparalleled in modern history. The severe weather killed 36 people, injured 481, and caused $1.2 billion in economic losses in California.

In late August 1983 my brother Tom and I took the tram up to the top of Squaw Valley for some summer skiing. Note the blast holes from avalanche control exposed in the lingering snowpack.

The impact was so devastating to the Golden State and around the world that 1983 is the year that put the previously little-known word “El Niño” into the lexicon of the media and popular culture.

 

Old timers always refer back to the epic winter of 1952 when comparing snowdepths. In 1952, the snowpack in Tahoe City reached about 20 feet deep, an incredible event that even 1983 coudn’t beat.

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Categories
Truckee History

#256 TRUCKEE SLED DOG RACING

TAHOE NUGGET #256 TRUCKEE SLED DOG RACING

The Central Sierra’s first sled dog race in 16 years, slated for March 2-3 during the upcoming Snowfest celebration, was recently cancelled due to poor snow conditions at the Royal Gorge Cross Country Ski Resort near Donner Pass. The Truckee-Tahoe area hasn’t had a significant snowstorm since the Christmas holidays nearly two months ago. Fortunately resorts are still sitting on a solid snowpack due to cold temps this winter and skiing and riding has been good.

Note striking similarities between winters 2011 (red line) and 2013 (blue line). Both started out with precipitation trajectories that exceeded 1983 (wettest winter of record in this data set), and both 2011 and 2013 flatlined after Christmas. After boasting precip accmulations at 200% of normal early on, the Northern Sierra is currently down to 109% for the date with no major storms on the immediate horizon. Of more concern is that water content in the snowpack is below normal for this time of year. Waiting for another “Miracle March.” 

Organizers of this year’s Jack London Commemorative Sierra Sled Dog Derby said that they “could not ensure their ability to conduct the race in a manner that would guarantee safety for both the dogs and mushers.” A key tenet of the Sierra Nevada Dog Drivers, a charity association that works to promote the recreational sport of sled dog racing in California, is safety of the canine athletes.

Sled dog races in Truckee have alway drawn large, enthusiastic crowds as depicted at this Feb. 1929 Sierra Dog Derby event.

The Jack London race was to honor the noted California author of “Call of the Wild,” a novel written by London in 1903. After spending nearly a year in Alaska during the 1890s Klondike Gold Rush, London penned his fictional story about a sled dog struggling to survive abusive humans and an extreme winter environment. The book became an instant classic and brought Jack London fame as one of America’s favorite authors. Three years later London wrote “White Fang,” a companion novel that thematically mirrors his first book. 

It’s not always fun and games for Sierra sled dogs. In the days before oversnow vehicles, aircraft crashes near Donner Pass required canine rescue. Here a team is hauling out parts of an airplane that went down.

The International Sled Dog Racing Association claims that the first sled dog race in the lower 48 states was staged in 1917 in Ashton, Idaho. That state’s on-going American Dog Derby may call itself the “oldest dog sled race in the United States,” but the town of Truckee actually held America’s first dog sled competition in 1915.

Among the many spectators to cheer the dogs on in that historic event was none other than Jack London. These canine-driven competitions were an important part of the Truckee community’s annual winter carnival to promote winter sports and bring tourists to the mountains.

Novelist Jack London (center left) with his friend John “Iron Man” Johnson at the nation’s first sled dog race held in Truckee in 1915.

Truckee’s winter sports industry got started in the 1890s when several of the town’s leading citizens formed a private Winter Carnival company to build and operate an ice palace on Front Street in downtown Truckee. They were convinced that developing and expanding winter tourism could boost revenue with year-round activity.

Their pioneering efforts resulted in the construction of the town’s first Ice Palace, which became the cornerstone of the earliest winter carnivals. Soon activities like fast toboggan runs and horse-drawn sleigh rides, ski races, and moonlight ice skating parties on Donner Lake began to attract the attention of residents in San Francisco and Sacramento.

By 1910 nearly 1,000 tourists were showing up on weekends, filling Truckee’s hotels. Southern Pacific Railroad was also promoting the carnival and helping to house visitors by parking Pullman sleeper cars on track sidings. Promotional movies were filmed of people enjoying the snow, part of an aggressive marketing campaign to spread the gospel of winter sports.

In this promotional photo from about 1931, a sled dog team pulls a glider along the Truckee River in a race with a passenger train on the Lake Tahoe Railway. Gliders launched and pulled by sled dogs became a popular activity during winter.

The Truckee Ski Club formed in 1914, first of its kind on the West Coast. Newspapers began touting Truckee as the best winter sports resort town nationwide. In the evenings the Isis Theater in Truckee showed motion pictures, and dances sometimes went all night. Sledding was a big part of the winter carnivals, and there were boxing matches and baseball games in the snow.

Nobody told this miniature dachshund that he couldn’t be a sled dog too.

In 1915, John “Iron Man” Johnson, a legendary Alaskan musher arrived in Truckee with his dog team. Johnson had won the punishing five-day, 408-mile All-Alaska Sweepstakes in 1910, 1913, and 1914. His 1910 time of less than 75 hours is a record that remains unbroken today. Johnson had been invited to put on an exhibition dog sled sprint race from downtown Truckee to Donner Lake and back.

Three sleds competed in this highly publicized sprint, including Alaskan Bill Brady with his malamute dog team and Ed Parker’s team of huskies. This first race in the contiguous 48 states was easily won by “Iron Man” Johnson and his famous team of Siberian wolves.

Dog sledding quickly became a popular winter activity and sport. In the late 1920s, a dog sled race from Truckee to Tahoe City and back was held. That event was won by Fred Prince, with a team of Irish Setters. Men dominated the sport until 1928 when Thula Geelan first entered the Tahoe Dog Derby.

Thula Geelan, from McCall, Idaho, was the first female to match her skills and endurance against men in the international sled dog racing circuit. Here she poses with Jack Titus and one of her Irish Setters during the 1929 Sierra Dog Derby event in Truckee. 

In 1931, on her third attempt, she won the Tahoe Dog Derby beating seven men, some of them among the most noted drivers in the world. The 60-mile competition was held during a raging snowstorm, but Geelan and her team of Irish Setters finished in less than six hours, winning the $1,000 prize.

Thula Geelan, America’s first professional female musher, takes off out of Truckee during a 1929 race.

In 1930, another legendary musher arrived in Truckee with his dogs and sled. Scotsman Alexander “Scotty” Allan, who won the grueling All-Alaska Sweepstakes an incredible five times, was in town for some training and to film scenes for a movie shoot at Soda Springs near Donner Pass. 

Scotty Allan’s sled dog team in Tahoe City.

In March 1949, Lloyd Van Sickle became the U.S. champion of 11-mile dog sled racing when his team, led by his prized Samoyed, Rex the Blizzard King, took first place in a national competition held near Truckee.

Two months later, Van Sickle and Rex successfully defended their national crown in the Sierra Dog Derby in front of an estimated 1,000 spectators, beating out Lloyd’s brother Bob, who was visiting from Idaho with a team of malamutes.

Rex may have weighed only 70 pounds, but in 1954 he broke the world record for weight pulling at a contest in West Yellowstone, Montana, with a pull of 1,870 pounds.

When in Tahoe this winter, experience the thrill and excitement of dog sledding on a 2.5 mile tour that winds through the Squaw Valley meadow.

Special thanks to my friend Frank Titus, born in Truckee in 1922, for sharing his family photos with me.

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Categories
Weather History

#255 TAHOE'S SNOWIEST WINTER (1938)

TAHOE NUGGET #255: TAHOE’S SNOWIEST WINTER (1938)

It’s been 75 years since the Tahoe-Truckee region was crushed under nearly 70 feet of snow in 1938. And similar to this winter, that epic season started off with a very wet fall, followed by a bone dry January. But the Storm King roared back after that and never let up until setting a snowfall record on Donner Pass that still stands today.

Most Tahoe winters exhibit a roller coaster ride of sun and storm, with an eventual accumulation of about 35 feet of snow on Donner Pass. The 2013 water year started off with a bang, but has recently taken a respite and we’ve seen hardly a flake since New Years. January, normally the wettest month of the winter has been a bust this year, but there is still plenty of time to ratchet up the storm machine. It’s a climatologically normal pattern and we just go along for the ride.

Pre World War II snowplows combined blades and blowers to remove snow.

The snowiest winter in history dumped 68 feet on Donner Pass and like this year the season started off with a few major weather events, but then precipitation stalled. Conditions were wet and mild during the fall of 1937, but nothing out of the ordinary. When the season’s first major low pressure system swept in off the ocean in the middle of December dumping snow on the peaks, mountain residents hardly noticed.

After that first storm, however, temperatures began to rise, raising snow levels to near 9,000 feet. Driven by gale force winds, a sub-tropical system surged into the mountains unloading 5 inches of rain in 24 hours. The deluge transformed portions of vital trans-Sierra Highway 40 into a raging river and shut down the road. Gullies and streams filled beyond capacity, and rushing water ripped out 180 feet of train track near Emigrant Gap, terminating train travel too.

Dog sleds were frequently used in Truckee during big winters. In a pinch, any breed will do. Note skier at far left. 

All the creeks draining Sierra canyons on Tahoe’s West Shore overflowed, inundating estates with more than 6 feet of debris-laden water. Racing waters displaced boulders and downed trees over Highway 28 making travel perilous and eventually impossible. Conditions were worse near South Lake Tahoe where a roaring wall of water swept down Glen Alpine Canyon near Fallen Leaf Lake carrying away homes and roadway.

The tropic-like storm dumped nearly 10 inches of rain on Lake Tahoe, raising the lake’s water level 9 inches in three days. When the skies finally cleared, there was barely a foot of snow left on the mountains. Most of January was dry, but at the end of the month a barrage of cold storms inundated higher elevations with 12 feet of snow in less than a week. From then on the storms hit hard and fast, swept along by winds gusting to 90 mph. It began a siege of extreme weather that would last for 21 consecutive days.

The highway over Echo Summit to South Lake Tahoe was rarely plowed before World War II, but that didn’t stop these ardent motorists.

Small towns throughout the Sierra were inundated by the snowfall. Tahoe residents shoveled 17 feet of new snow in 16 days. Truckee businesses and expensive lake front homes were in danger of collapse so men and boys were hired to remove snow. There were no mail deliveries to Tahoe City for more than a week and no fresh food available for twice that long.

The heavy snow was a financial boon for locals who could earn 50 cents an hour shoveling roofs, nearly twice the prevailing wage. This is Frank A. Titus, an early resident of Truckee and an engineer on the Lake Tahoe Railway. 

In February a week-long blizzard buried Tahoe communities with another 9 feet of snow. At one point Tahoe City was completely isolated with no automobile traffic and all communication cut off for two weeks.

By Valentine’s Day, the snow was 20 feet deep on Donner Summit. During a rare break in the weather, the steamer that regularly circled Lake Tahoe with mail and deliveries arrived back in Tahoe City. The captain mentioned that if anyone wanted some horsemeat, it was available at Glenbrook, Nevada. Apparently a caretaker there had shot a horse due to injury and was willing to share the meat if anyone was interested.

Snow piling up at Homewood on Lake Tahoe’s West Shore, circa 1938.

The story spread to San Francisco and even Los Angeles that snowbound Tahoe residents were running out of food and near starvation. Thoughts of the Donner Party tragedy began to crop up. On February 17, the San Francisco Examiner quoted Tahoe City Constable Harry Johanson as saying he was “holding in reserve 1,000 pounds of fresh horsemeat, should the situation get serious and the need for fresh meat become acute.”

California Governor Merriam was alerted and the San Francisco Call Bulletin newspaper enlisted United Airlines to organize an emergency food drop at Tahoe City.  Local residents built signal fires in the middle of the Tahoe City Golf Course and that night an airplane swung in low to 400 feet, dropping 10 boxes of bread, meat and vegetables. Most of the the boxes shattered when they hit trees, but the contents were safely retrieved by cross-country skiers and distributed around the community. 

Tahoe City residents on skis returning with a battered box dropped in the emergency airlift.

The winter of ’38 started late, but made up for it with powerful storms in February and March. By May, a record 819 inches of snow had buried Donner Pass, the greatest seasonal snowfall since measurements began in 1878.

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